Advanced Technical Reference

Knitting & Weaving

Yarn preparation, woven and knitted fabric formation, machine settings, inspection, testing, defects, and troubleshooting.

Knitting & Weaving
01

Yarn & Preparation

Fabric formation starts with yarn count, fibre, twist, strength, evenness, hairiness, moisture, package build, and preparation suited to the machine and end use.

  • Verify fibre composition, yarn system, count, ply, twist, and lot
  • Test strength, elongation, evenness, imperfections, and contamination risk
  • Condition yarn and manage package storage and identification
  • Warp woven yarns with controlled tension and end count
  • Size warp yarns for abrasion resistance and loom performance
  • Wax or lubricate knitting yarn only within approved limits
02

Weaving Technology

Weaving interlaces warp and weft under controlled tension to produce stable structures with engineered cover, strength, drape, and appearance.

  • Define weave: plain, twill, satin, dobby, jacquard, or derivative
  • Set EPI, PPI, reed, pick density, width, and target weight
  • Balance warp tension, shedding, picking, beat-up, and take-up
  • Control selvedge formation, temple setting, and loom speed
  • Monitor stops, broken ends, missing picks, floats, reed marks, and bars
  • Record loom, beam, style, roll, shift, and operator traceability
03

Knitting Technology

Knitting forms intermeshing loops whose geometry determines stretch, recovery, weight, stability, porosity, and spirality.

  • Define single jersey, rib, interlock, pique, fleece, warp knit, or specialty structure
  • Control gauge, feeders, stitch length, yarn tension, take-down, and speed
  • Measure courses, wales, loop length, width, GSM, and stitch density
  • Balance feeder yarn and machine settings to prevent barré
  • Control elastane feed and plating for stretch and recovery
  • Monitor needle lines, press-off, holes, drop stitches, and oil marks
04

Inspection, Testing & Tolerances

Greige and finished fabrics are verified against construction, dimensional, shade, appearance, and performance specifications.

  • Condition specimens to ISO 139 before physical testing
  • Verify GSM, width, EPI/PPI or courses/wales, and construction
  • Inspect rolls using the approved four-point or buyer system
  • Assess bow, skew, spirality, shrinkage, stretch, and recovery
  • Test tensile, tear, burst, pilling, abrasion, and colour fastness as applicable
  • Group rolls by shade and performance before cutting allocation
05

Defects & Troubleshooting

Root-cause analysis links fabric defects to yarn, preparation, machine elements, settings, environment, and finishing.

  • Barré: compare yarn lots, feeder tension, stitch length, and dye response
  • Needle lines or holes: replace damaged needles and inspect cams/sinkers
  • Reed or warp streaks: check reed condition, drawing, tension, and sizing
  • Missing picks or floats: correct stop motions, shedding, and insertion
  • High spirality: review yarn twist, machine rotation, structure, and skew finish
  • Variable GSM: stabilize stitch length, pick density, take-down, width, and finishing
Apply buyer-specific manuals where requirements are stricter.

Written by Sanjeewa Dehiwalagewww.nosk.lifeAll rights reserved.

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