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Training Manual — Section 3

Fabric Knowledge

The complete fabric reference — woven and knit constructions, GSM, yarn count, defects, and testing standards.

Contents

01Woven Fabrics02Knit Fabrics03Fabric GSM04Yarn Count05Fabric Defects06Fabric Testing
Woven Fabrics
Section 01

Woven Fabrics

Fabric made by interlacing warp and weft yarns at right angles.

Fabric made by interlacing warp and weft yarns at right angles.

Key Types

  • Plain weave (poplin, canvas)
  • Twill weave (denim, chino)
  • Satin weave (smooth, shiny)
  • Oxford
  • Ripstop

Properties

  • High strength
  • Low stretch
  • Durable
  • Stable structure

Quality Checkpoints

  • Weave consistency
  • No slubs or knots
  • Tear strength
  • Color uniformity
Knit Fabrics
Section 02

Knit Fabrics

Fabric made by interlooping yarns, giving natural stretch.

Fabric made by interlooping yarns, giving natural stretch.

Key Types

  • Single jersey
  • Interlock
  • Rib knit
  • French terry
  • Fleece knit

Properties

  • High stretch
  • Soft hand feel
  • Comfortable
  • Breathable

Quality Checkpoints

  • Loop uniformity
  • GSM accuracy
  • No holes
  • No spirality
Fabric GSM
Section 03

Fabric GSM

GSM = Grams per Square Meter. Indicates fabric weight.

GSM = Grams per Square Meter. Indicates fabric weight.

Ranges

  • Lightweight: 80–150 GSM
  • Midweight: 150–250 GSM
  • Heavyweight: 250–450 GSM

Quality Checkpoints

  • GSM tolerance ±3%
  • Even distribution
  • No density variation
Yarn Count
Section 04

Yarn Count

Indicates thickness of yarn (Ne, Tex, Denier).

Indicates thickness of yarn (Ne, Tex, Denier).

Types

  • Ne (English count)
  • Tex (weight per 1000m)
  • Denier (weight per 9000m)

Quality Checkpoints

  • Uniform yarn thickness
  • No weak spots
  • No uneven twist
Fabric Defects
Section 05

Fabric Defects

Major defects found during fabric inspection.

Major Defects

  • Slubs
  • Knots
  • Holes
  • Barre
  • Color variation
  • Contamination
  • Weaving faults

Quality Checkpoints

  • 4-point system inspection
  • Defect mapping
  • Roll consistency
Fabric Testing
Section 06

Fabric Testing

Key tests for fabric performance and durability.

Key Tests

  • Tear strength
  • Tensile strength
  • Pilling resistance
  • Abrasion resistance
  • Color fastness
  • Shrinkage test

Quality Checkpoints

  • Test report verification
  • Lab dip approval
  • Bulk consistency

Continue your training

Explore the construction manual and the full module library.

Construction manual

Advanced reference

Technical controls & troubleshooting

Construction Analysis

  • Identify fibre composition, yarn system, count, twist, ply, weave/knit structure, and finish
  • Measure EPI/PPI or courses/wales per unit and compare across roll width
  • Relate cover factor and loop length to weight, opacity, strength, stretch, and air permeability
  • Assess skew, bow, spirality, usable width, selvedge condition, and face/back orientation
  • Condition specimens to ISO 139 before GSM, strength, stretch, and dimensional testing
  • Create roll maps linking defect positions to marker planning and cutting avoidance

Performance & Specifications

  • GSM determined to ISO 3801 or ASTM D3776
  • Tensile strength to ISO 13934; tear strength to ISO 13937
  • Pilling to ISO 12945 and abrasion to ISO 12947
  • Dimensional change to ISO 5077 after ISO 6330 laundering
  • Colour fastness assessed with ISO 105 or equivalent AATCC methods
  • Stretch and recovery tested in warp/weft or course/wale directions

Inspection Controls

  • Verify fabric at incoming, first-output, inline, end-line, and final stages
  • Separate critical, major, and minor defects using the approved defect library
  • Use risk-based sampling; increase frequency after a failure or process change
  • Maintain shade, size, lot, roll, and bundle traceability throughout production
  • Quarantine nonconforming output until disposition and corrective action are approved
  • Confirm corrective action effectiveness on consecutive production checks

Troubleshooting

  • Contain affected fabric output and identify the last verified-good checkpoint
  • Use 5 Why and fishbone analysis across material, machine, method, people, and environment
  • Compare failed output with the sealed sample, specification, and machine settings
  • Correct the root cause rather than relying on repeated inspection or repair
  • Run a controlled trial, validate results, then release the updated process setting
  • Update SOP, control plan, training record, and preventive-maintenance requirement

Written by Sanjeewa Dehiwalage — www.nosk.life — All rights reserved.

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