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Training Manual — Section 2

Garment Construction Fundamentals

The foundational layers of garment production — stitch types, seam classes, panels, construction flow, fit & measurement, and QA checkpoints.

Contents

01Stitch Types02Seam Types03Garment Panels & Construction Flow04Garment Fit & Measurement System05Garment QA Checkpoints
Stitch Types
Section 01

Stitch Types

Core industrial stitches used across garment production.

Core Industrial Stitches

  • 101 Chain Stitch — flexible, used for waistbands
  • 301 Lock Stitch — strong, clean, used for topstitch
  • 401 Overlock — edge finishing
  • 504 Overlock — high-speed seam finishing
  • 602 Coverstitch — hems, knit garments
  • Zigzag Stitch — stretch areas
  • Bartack — reinforcement
  • Blind Stitch — invisible hem

Quality Checkpoints

  • Stitch density
  • Thread tension
  • Seam strength
  • No skipped stitches
  • No thread breakage
Seam Types
Section 02

Seam Types

Major seam classes that define how garment panels are joined.

Major Seam Classes

  • SS — Superimposed Seam
  • LS — Lapped Seam
  • BS — Bound Seam
  • FS — Flat Seam
  • EF — Edge Finish Seam

Quality Checkpoints

  • Seam alignment
  • No puckering
  • Balanced tension
  • Correct seam allowance
Garment Panels & Construction Flow
Section 03

Garment Panels & Construction Flow

Key garment panels and the sequential flow from preparation to QA.

Key Panels

  • Front body
  • Back body
  • Sleeve
  • Collar
  • Hood
  • Pocket
  • Placket
  • Hem band

Construction Flow

  • 1. Panel preparation
  • 2. Stitching
  • 3. Joining major parts
  • 4. Attaching trims
  • 5. Finishing
  • 6. QA inspection
Garment Fit & Measurement System
Section 04

Garment Fit & Measurement System

Essential measurement points and fit types for production accuracy.

Measurement Points

  • Chest
  • Waist
  • Hip
  • Shoulder
  • Sleeve length
  • Jacket length
  • Hood height

Fit Types

  • Regular
  • Slim
  • Relaxed
  • Oversized

Quality Checkpoints

  • Tolerance control
  • Symmetry
  • Straight hem
  • Sleeve alignment
Garment QA Checkpoints
Section 05

Garment QA Checkpoints

A complete QA checklist covering appearance, construction, functionality, and performance.

Appearance

  • No stains
  • No wrinkles
  • No color variation

Construction

  • Seam strength
  • Stitch accuracy
  • Panel alignment

Functionality

  • Zipper smoothness
  • Pocket usability
  • Hood adjustability

Performance

  • Shrinkage
  • Color fastness
  • Seam strength test

Continue your training

Explore the jacket product manual and the full module library.

Jacket manual

Advanced reference

Technical controls & troubleshooting

Seam & Stitch Engineering

  • Use ISO 4915 stitch and ISO 4916 seam classifications on operation sheets
  • Balance needle thread, bobbin/looper thread, feed ratio, and presser-foot pressure
  • Select SPI by material, seam loading, appearance, and needle-cut risk
  • Control seam allowance with folders, guides, templates, and first-piece approval
  • Specify backtack, bartack, reinforcement tape, or stay stitching at stress points
  • Validate seam extensibility for knits before approving the construction method

Machine & Needle Control

  • Match needle point to woven, knit, leather, or coated substrate
  • Use the smallest needle size that forms a stable stitch without damage
  • Set differential feed to prevent knit stretching or gathering
  • Control needle heat on synthetic materials through speed, needle finish, and thread selection
  • Change needles by defined piece/time frequency and record broken-needle reconciliation
  • Verify folder, gauge, feed dog, throat plate, and presser foot against operation standard

Tolerance & Verification

  • Define garment construction requirements in the approved tech pack before bulk release
  • Condition textile specimens to ISO 139 before dimensional or physical evaluation
  • Use calibrated equipment with traceable records and documented verification frequency
  • Apply the buyer manual where its requirement is stricter than the general standard
  • Approve lab dip, size set, pre-production sample, and sealed reference before production
  • Record method, sample identity, result, acceptance limit, status, date, and approver

Troubleshooting

  • Contain affected construction output and identify the last verified-good checkpoint
  • Use 5 Why and fishbone analysis across material, machine, method, people, and environment
  • Compare failed output with the sealed sample, specification, and machine settings
  • Correct the root cause rather than relying on repeated inspection or repair
  • Run a controlled trial, validate results, then release the updated process setting
  • Update SOP, control plan, training record, and preventive-maintenance requirement

Written by Sanjeewa Dehiwalage — www.nosk.life — All rights reserved.

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